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Author Topic: VaraPower Version II  (Read 18429 times)
Lambda
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« on: April 12, 2011, 05:14:57 PM »

VaraPower 2000 - Version  II

Whats new in Ver 2.0 ?

Direct to Copper Heatsink SST-90 LED Mount
The LED is reflow soldered directly to the massive copper heatsink.



What did it improve ?

Just about everything - Maximizing the heat transfer from the LED improved brightness, tint and LED lumen maintenance. More light, brighter light, and without any blue shift in the tint.

The prototype gets updated:

Upgrading the prototype VaraPower 2000 (VP2K65CU)

It was time to upgrade my VP2K to copper. It was still sporting the original aluminum heatsink from the first build.



While I built many copper heatsinks for VPs, every time I set one aside for my light, more parts would be needed for a build, and it would go into someone else's light.

Things slowed down a bit and I finally had the time to take on making the ultimate copper heatsink.



So did the new heatsink really make any difference?

Yes, The first thing noticeable is at maximum power there is no longer a tint shift towards blue. The LED light output maintains it's tint even when overdriven at the maximum output setting. Smile like an idiot, insane brightness with no blue shift.

This new Cu heatsink will replace the current copper heatsink for all on going and future VaraPower 2000 builds. No price increase for now :-) It will cost the same as the current (old) copper heatsink version does for now.

Sorry for being slow with email, not posting much, or updating the website a whole lot lately. I will try and get all the new lights and options posted to the website soon, and some new threads started here, but I've been a tad bit busy with the new designs and spring chores on the farm.

So far I have new to add - 2DXML, 2CXML, VPC2/3/4, FET switchs, and of course Cu Direct heatsinks for XML, SST-50 and SST-90 in D and C sizes along with the updates for the VP1K and VP2K.

Going to be nice today and tomorrow, then rain for a couple days at the end of the week. So hopefully I can get some updates posted while it rains.

Thanks for looking!

LL - We don't make the flashlight, we make it better
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bigchelis
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« Reply #1 on: April 13, 2011, 05:22:46 PM »

Wow.  The original VARA2000 copper was already at over 2200 real OTF lumens.  More lumens I bet..Now that you do LED to copper bonding I would like to see what you do with CBT-90 lipsrsealed

So, let me get this straight.  The New VARA2000 SST-90 will be:
 
  • Copper to LED bonding
    Driven Harder
    Better Heat Transfer
    Same Price
    better value
YIKES  shocked
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Cadman
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« Reply #2 on: April 14, 2011, 12:01:31 AM »

Oooh, can't wait for mine to get here. Thanks Lambda, looking forward to my new baby Smiley
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nightcrawler
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« Reply #3 on: April 14, 2011, 12:54:09 AM »

Welcome to FNF, Cadman...

...and it looks like you're buying a sweet light!

Lambda's stuff  :rock: 's!!
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Lambda
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« Reply #4 on: April 14, 2011, 05:32:37 AM »

Wow, kind of a muted response.  undecided

This is the holy grail of high power LED cooling, eliminating all the thermal junctions possible. Would think some discussion would result. Perhaps this is a dying hobbie. cry

Might just be that Cadman's 5700K SST-90 is an over achiever, but it scored over 60,000 lux at one meter. And that's with the LED dome lens on. For reference, 45K -50K is the normal range for VP2K with dome lens on; at least it used to be.  grin

I should have the next VP 2 unit together with the same BIN WN-H4 SST-90 this weekend so I can do an output comparison. Well, compare the numbers, as Cadman's light will ship out today for it's long trip home.
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Froggy
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« Reply #5 on: April 14, 2011, 11:28:20 AM »

Not muted, just leaving you alone so you have time to perfect the lights!
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bigchelis
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« Reply #6 on: April 14, 2011, 01:02:07 PM »

Maybe alot of folks don't know why copper vs. Brass vs. aluminum.

Furthermore; Maybe some may not know how freaking awesome LED to copper bonding actually is.

 crazy
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nightcrawler
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« Reply #7 on: April 14, 2011, 01:58:47 PM »

April is usually a little slow on the forums, don't know why. Could be the start of spring and the longer days mean more folks are outside and not online.

I don't think it's because there's anything wrong with the VaraPower II!
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IsaacHayes
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« Reply #8 on: April 14, 2011, 02:25:11 PM »

Brass is a worse heatsink than aluminum. But I don't know how it compares when directly soldered to the LED vs aluminum and thermal epoxy to aluminum. The junction would be better, but the material would be worse.

Kevin, that is awesome. Do you own a mill? I see the copper sink is squared up for the exact shape of the thermal pad. How do you re-flow those? Propane torch underneath? That's the only way I would be able to!

I bet the warmer weather has people away from the computer. We went from snow one weekend to mowing the grass the next here. I've been busy with taxes, needing a new roof (single layer, shingles on the ground!), work, etc. This weekend is going towards working on the car and that doesn't even count getting to the transmission, it's just installing tires and changing the oil and a few other "minor" repairs. And I'm sure I'll be mowing the yard again.

Since taxes are out of the way maybe this up coming week nights I can get back to picking up where I left off modding. I need to take off so I can have more roofers give me quotes. Problem is work is so crazy and we are so few now they won't let anyone off. But anyway, I got to get these lights done so I can enjoy them.

Kevin, does the XML show the same tint shift as the SST-50 does when pushed hard? Which package seems the most robust to overdrive? (I know this thread is about the SST-90, but had to ask). It seems the XML's put out more lumens with less watts compared to the SST-50, makes me wonder what the XML would do at 5 amps if the heat could be managed....
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sprinkle
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« Reply #9 on: April 15, 2011, 10:19:53 AM »

I don't think it's because there's anything wrong with the VaraPower II!

Definitely nothing wrong with the VaraPower II and definitely not from lack of interest in it. For me it just hurts to see this beauty knowing I won't be able to afford it. I have the first version with the aluminum heatsink and love it but of course would rather have this one. But I may be able to afford one more light from you and I am holding out on the 3C version.
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Lambda
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« Reply #10 on: April 16, 2011, 12:08:06 PM »

Ok, well there are still some flashaholics left.  grin

Just finished up the other 5700K VP2 and it hit well over 60K too.

And later after it gets through testing, I get to pull the dome lens off and see what it can really do.

Update: De-domed VP2B57CDL11 and measured 123,000 Lux at one meter.

Refocused, remeasured and retested again at 121,000 Lux. That even blew past the VP FrankenLight CBT-90 that scored 93,000 Lux!

We have an new champion in VP brightness.  :fireworks3:
« Last Edit: April 18, 2011, 10:13:12 AM by Lambda » Logged
sprinkle
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« Reply #11 on: April 17, 2011, 02:52:40 PM »

Update: De-domed VP2B57CDL11 and measured 123,000 Lux at one meter.

Refocused, remeasured and retested again at 121,000 Lux. That even blew past the VP FrankenLight CBT-90 that scored 93,000 Lux!

Holy Cow! That is amazing! Don't suppose there is an upgrade route I can take with my "old" VP is there?
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gswitter
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« Reply #12 on: April 17, 2011, 05:37:17 PM »

Holy Cow, indeed!

I thought I'd be happy with VP XM-L, but the want is perking up again.
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Lambda
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« Reply #13 on: April 19, 2011, 06:47:56 AM »

Don't suppose there is an upgrade route I can take with my "old" VP is there?

Yes, the VP is modular design so the current heatsink can be removed and replaced with the new one. If the old heatsink is copper, I can even rework it into the new design.
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sprinkle
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« Reply #14 on: April 19, 2011, 08:14:31 AM »

Yes, the VP is modular design so the current heatsink can be removed and replaced with the new one. If the old heatsink is copper, I can even rework it into the new design.

Awesome! PM sent to you.
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Cadman
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« Reply #15 on: April 29, 2011, 09:54:10 PM »

Umm I just got my VP2K Mk 2.

Just want to say to anyone thinking about getting one:

Don't hesitate, just get in line Smiley What an awesome torch. Thanks a ton Kevin, this is exactly what I was after. I LOVE the variable light, it's nice and intuative to go from barely any to blinding.

Great work Smiley

Matt from Oz
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JA(me)S
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« Reply #16 on: May 04, 2011, 04:27:05 PM »

Lambda,

So that I would better understand the relevance of your efforts and to further my education, I've been reading about the importance of and differences in methods of attaching LEDs to copper and copper heatsinks to aluminum in regards to efficient heat transfer.  Regarding LED to copper; creating a Nickel plate under the LED's thermal pad and then re-flowing with Indium solder was suggested.  Regarding copper heatsink to an aluminum housing; it was suggested that press fitting (with smooth as possible mating surfaces) with a thin layer of Arctic Silver 5 was a good method.

I know the more I learn, the more I find out there is learn - and that everyone will have a different opinion.  To that end, and for obvious reasons, I highly value your opinion.  What methods do you use and why?

- Jas.
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Lambda
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« Reply #17 on: May 04, 2011, 06:36:17 PM »

Hi James,

No special nickel, tin or other exotic things used. I just solder the LED straight to the copper heatsink.

While Artic Silver is very good when properly used, a solder connection conducts heat many, many times better; no comparison.

The trick is heating the heatsink and LED up to make the solder connection without over heating things and degrading the LED. Follow the mfg's recommended heat profile for soldering to get the best results.

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JA(me)S
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« Reply #18 on: May 04, 2011, 06:56:33 PM »

I'm sorry for not posting clearly enough - I was trying to cover two topics.  LED to heatsink, and heatsink to aluminum housing (AS 5 used here)...

-Jas.

edit:  LED to Cu heatsink; Indium solder is almost 4x more thermally efficient than Bizmuth low temp solder.
         Cu heatsink to aluminum light body: press fit with AS 5

         Sounds good, thought it may be a way for you to squeeze a few more Lm, but is it all bunk?
« Last Edit: May 04, 2011, 07:35:46 PM by JA(me)S » Logged
bigchelis
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« Reply #19 on: May 05, 2011, 11:43:46 AM »

It doesnt matter how great AS5 or other stuff can transfer heat, because you eliminate them.


The best and without question method to cool an LED is to use a bare emitter and bonded direct to copper heatsink.



bigC
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